Brașov, Romania
Brașov (pronounced "Brashov") is the sixth-largest city in the Eastern European nation of Romania. It is one of seven original citadels established by the Saxons within the historic and mountainous region of Transylvania. The cobblestone streets of the red-roofed (and still partially-walled) Old Town are filled with eye-catching architecture covering various styles, tourist-satisfying shops and restaurants, and residential buildings that are delightfully rough-around-the-edges. As a result, Brașov has developed into a cultural mecca and outdoor recreation gem that attracts visitors from all corners of the globe without ever feeling over-crowded or untrue to its eclectic roots.
Geography
Brașov is the administrative center of the county by the same name. The city is nestled in the Southern Carpathian Mountains of Central Romania (at an altitude of 2,133 feet), in the historic territory of (Southern) Transylvania.
This sizable city is just over 100 miles North of Bucharest (the nation's capital), approximately 170 miles Southeast of Cluj-Napoca (Romania's second-largest city), and about 130 miles West of the Black Sea (as the crow flies, but a little less than double that to drive via Bucharest). In terms of outdoor attractions, Brașov sits at the base of Mount Tâmpa (a nature reserve with ample hiking trails, wildlife, and panoramic viewpoints), is but a scenic day trip from two national parks (Piatra Craiului and Bucegi), and is less than eight miles Northeast of Poiana Brașov, which is one of the most popular ski resorts in the country.
Climate
Because of its inland and mountainous position, Brașov is pleasant in the summer, chilly in the winter, and sees moderate amounts of annual precipitation (both rain and snow). In more technical terms, Brașov experiences a humid continental climate, which is classified as Dfb on the Köppen climate system.
The mean daily temperature across the entire year is approximately 46.1 degrees Fahrenheit and ranges from an average daily low of 17.1, in January to an average daily high of 75.2 in July. Precipitation peaks in June, with 3.8 inches of average rainfall, and bottoms out in February, when 1.1 inches falls, typically in the form of snow (here, the snowy period lasts for about 4.7 months). This works out to 25.1 inches of average yearly precipitation, though some sources put this figure north of 31 inches. Regarding cloud cover, Brașov's sunniest month occurs in July, when the sky is clear, mostly clear, or partly cloudy 76% of the time. Conversely, in February, overcast skies exist roughly 59% of the time.
A Brief History of Brașov
Brașov was founded by the Teutonic Knights (a military order of the Catholic church) in 1211 under the name Kronstadt (German) and/or Corona (Latin) – both of which translate as "Crown City." Shortly thereafter, it was settled by the Transylvanian Saxons (as per the wishes of the Hungarian kings) and developed into one of seven walled citadels in the region, along with Bistrita (Bistritz), Cluj (Klausenburg), Medias (Mediasch), Sebes (Mühlbach), Sibiu (Hermannstadt), and Sighișoara (Schässburg).
The settlement's royal title alludes to the wealth the Transylvanian Saxons enjoyed during this era. This is because Transylvania (Siebenburgen) bridged the gap between the trade routes of the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe. The local merchants also benefited from minimal taxation.
Though the 13th century was when the story began to formalize (1235 is the earliest documented mention of Corona), the general vicinity of modern-day Brașov has been inhabited since about 100 BC (by an Indo-European ethnic group known as the Dacians). Further archeological evidence for the presence of transient humans dates as far back as the Neolithic age.
Demographics and Economy
As of the 2021 census, Brașov had a population of 237,589, while the entire metropolitan area posted a figure of 371,802. The demographic breakdown was roughly 91.3% Romanian, 7.1% Hungarian, 0.5% German (i.e., Transylvanian Saxons), 0.4% Romani (often referred to locally as "gypsies"), and 0.7% from other ethnicities (including a small Jewish sector).
Historically, Brașov's economy focused on heavy industry. Between World War I and II, the city excelled in airplane manufacturing. Post WWII, during Romania's communist era, the emphasis shifted to truck repair and tractor manufacturing before returning to aircraft in the late 1960s. While Brașov continues its manufacturing ways (albeit to a lesser degree), the city has benefited from its growing tourism and hospitality industries – especially in the Old Town.
Attractions in and Around Brașov
When visiting Brașov, one should allow time to explore the city center, and the surrounding natural and architectural attractions. At least one full day is necessary for each, but more is better.
Old Town
The historic center is compact and pedestrian-friendly. Part of the fun is perusing the simple network (though it does have a few intriguing twists, turns, and narrow alleyways) without rhyme or reason. But if in doubt, start the journey in the Council Square (Piața Sfatului). The heart of the Old Town is elegant, spacious, and always full of life. The Old Town Hall (Casa Sfatului) and fountains act as the focal point, with streetside patios protruding from the slew of peripheral restaurants in the summer and festive markets and colorful displays taking their place in the winter.
Whichever direction you walk from the central square, must-see highlights await. To the West, the Black Church (Biserica Neagră) – built between the 14th and 15th centuries but so named after the "Great Fire" of 1689 scorched its walls – dominates the skyline. Beyond its Gothic bulk, one of the narrowest streets in Europe, Rope Street (Strada Sforii), is a fun novelty on the way over to Schei Gate (Poarta Schei) or Catherine's Gate (Poarta Ecaterinei) – two of the remaining arched entrance ways to the once walled city.
Just North of Council Square, the 15th-century Black and White Towers afford lovely views of Brașov and our next major attraction (just be prepared to climb many stairs). The short but steep Tâmpa Mountain looms to the South, outside the restored stone wall and bastions. Folks can ride the cable car to the top or hike the 2-mile switchback trail (or take the easy way up and enjoy the forest on the walk back down). Either way, the Hollywood-style sign is the perfect place to gain a bird's-eye-view of the whole city and some perspective on the surrounding peaks. Signed trails continue deeper into the mountains, but beware, for there are more brown bears in Romania than in the rest of Europe combined.
Finally, the pedestrian stip, Strada Republicii, flows east of the square, giving tourists an endless array of dining options (everything from sit-in restaurants to grab 'n' go hole-in-the-wall bakeries to traditional Kürtőskalács (chimney cake) carts. If Strada Republicii doesn't hit the mark, every single branching street will reveal more unique eateries and cafes.
Day Trips
Bran Castle, aka "Dracula's Castle," is just a 30-minute drive Southwest of Brașov. Tour the infamous 14th-century royal residence before dipping deeper into the 35,000-acre Piatra Craiului National Park. On the way back, stop over in Râșnov to see the hilltop fortress before taking the scenic tour through Poiana Brașov – a lovely mountain village whose ski resort comes alive in the winter. The next day, try hopping the train down to Bucegi National Park to see the soaring peaks of the Bucegi Mountains, aka the "Transylvanian Alps" (don't worry, there's another cable car to the top), and the waterfalls, curious rock formations (including the "Sphinx") on the way up.
Another absolute must while in Transylvania is the Transfăgărășan–-one of the most beautiful drives in the world. The Northern terminus of this winding alpine highway can be accessed West of Brașov en route to Sibiu. The entire trip into the province of Muntenia is worthwhile. Still, even the first part up into the Făgăraș Mountains and to the high-altitude Bâlea Lake will be an unforgettable experience.
A Personal Send-Off
I have had the fortune of visiting Brașov many times in recent years. It has flaunted its energetic summer side, decorative holiday spirit, and shoulder-season tranquility. Though technically a big city, the Old Town enclave is that of a charming mountain town. The historic center hits all the cultural, culinary, and coffee beats that one could possibly desire, and the mountainous surroundings are great for simply dipping one's toe into nature or embarking on full-blown wilderness treks. Brașov is not only one of the best places in Romania, but a significant highlight in the whole of Eastern Europe.
Bună ziua!
