DeFuniak Springs, Florida, Is Bringing Small-Town America Back

I recently took a three-day trip to DeFuniak Springs, Florida, in North Walton County. It is a fascinating "old Florida" town with a quaint downtown area of historical significance. Regarding tourism, there is a distinct dichotomy between North and South Walton County, with the southern portion receiving the most tourists because of its 26 miles of white, sandy beaches. However, less than 15 miles separates the two, with the northern side being more rural and the southern half more tropical.

From historic buildings, hot dog stands, and medieval weapons in the public library, here is a rundown of my visit to this unique slice of Florida history that brings small-town America back with its charm, hospitality, and history.

Unique Heritage

The town centers around Lake DeFuniak, one of only two almost perfectly round, spring-fed lakes in the world, right across from historic downtown. Circle Drive wraps around the lake and features an incredible array of historic homes, each with an individual story. The Walton-DeFuniak Library is located across Circle Drive, where the houses start, and it has printed maps of the homes.

Native Americans inhabited DeFuniak Springs for thousands of years, and then the Pensacola and Atlantic Railroad came to town in 1881. After the party leader, W.D. Chipley, spotted the lake, he ordered that the forest remain intact and came up with the idea for a town. So, the town was named after the railroad president, Frederick DeFuniak. Between the compact downtown district and Circle Drive lies a railroad track and a red railroad car, a nod to the town's namesake, adding a unique vibe to the area.

Circle Drive

After crossing over the railroad track that bisects the historic section from the downtown, you will find Circle Drive. The walkable road with shady trees wanders past many historic sites, markers, and homes. The markers tell the history and prominence of Chautauqua, a name that comes up often around town. This town has a multi-faceted history, and the Chautaqua Association is a significant part of that.

Chautauqua is a place in New York State where, in 1874, a minister and a businessman collaborated to build an educational campus on Lake Chautauqua. The idea was to educate ministers on academic courses that they may have missed because of leaving school at a young age during that era. The "Mother Chautauqua" in New York wanted to see the establishment of another Chautauqua assembly in the South, primarily for the winter months. The Florida Chautauqua was born out of this arrangement, and the original campuses and boarding houses are still here, each with a historical marker denoting its importance.

Walton-DeFuniak Library

The historical markers leading past the railroad car that tell the fascinating educational history of this area lead to the 1887 Walton-DeFuniak Library, the oldest continuously operated one in the state. I knew I was in for a treat as soon as I walked in. The foyer is actually the original library, while the open room beyond was the original porch. However, beyond that point lies a two-story affair that the county has lovingly built over the years, serving as an educational beacon for all, embracing its roots and moving toward the future.

Walking in, I noticed antique weapons hanging on the walls and a vintage music box to my left. The friendly librarian explained that the box was an original Regina from the 19th century and played me a tune from a gigantic metal disc from that era. Next, she explained the history of the weapons on the walls. There are over 60 maces, pikes, chain mail, and other implements of war from the Medieval era to the 1800s.

The now-defunct Palmer College donated them to the county in the 1930s, where they were stored at the city hall. However, the city hall caught fire in 1945, and the collection was housed in various places until it was donated to the library in 1984. It was hard to fathom the stories behind each one, the countries of origin, and the many miles they traveled in their lives to finally have a tranquil resting place at the Walton-DeFuniak Library. The library, situated on the banks of Lake DeFuniak, features a peaceful garden with beautiful foliage and a brick walkway that enhances the ambiance.

Downtown Attractions

I pulled into the Hotel DeFuniak, an iconic structure in the heart of downtown, a bit early so I could stretch my legs and take in the scenery. I was not disappointed. This district is the poster child for bringing small-town America back. Traditional brick structures hold a combination of vintage stores and modern amenities. The entire area is only about three or four blocks, but the community ensured each occupancy offered something interesting.

The hotel I stayed at was a grand experience, filled with European charm and a 1920s vibe. Guests generally have the run of the place, and exploring its library and furnishings made an indelible impression on me. It connects to Café Nola, both run by Chef Ernie Danjean, an amazing Cajun chef from New Orleans whose exuberance is just as delightful as his menu.

Downtown Restaurants

People do not have a lack of options for dining excursions in Defuniak Springs. From authentic Cajun food to historic hot dog stands, this town has plenty of fantastic options.

H & M Hot Dog Stand

I got to town in the middle of the day, so I decided to have lunch at the H & M Hot Dog Stand, the oldest hot dog stand in Florida. It has been in operation since 1947, and I had the distinct pleasure of meeting the manager, who will be the new owner in the fall. With only seven stools, a drink cooler, and a countertop, the place could get cramped pretty quickly. But that is part of its charm. The two-woman operation knows its stuff, and they serve up hot dogs and burgers to a packed house where crowds sometimes line the block.

Ed's Restaurant

Ed's has been a legendary establishment in town since 1964. The family-friendly establishment is most famous for its "Pub Burger" and is usually packed, although service is fast. The menu features chicken and dumplings, fried chicken, garlic and parmesan fries, and numerous milkshake flavors. In short, it is a great lunch spot, with friendly staff and a menu that has remained true to its roots. The menu has remained in the family since day one and underscores the family values that go into every meal.

Café Nola

That night, I dined at Café Nola, where Danjean treated me like family. Don't get me wrong, he treats every guest like family. He frequently walks the dining room, chatting and sometimes sitting with his guests. The night I was there, he crafted a one-off dish for a table with brown sugar and Cajun shrimp. He also gave me a plate, and it was one of the best shrimp dishes I have had yet.

True to form, Danjean is known for his gumbo, which recently won a regional contest. After trying a bowl, it is easy to see why. The chef has a way of creating Cajun dishes with just the right amount of heat so that anyone can enjoy the flavors. The ambiance of Café Nola is warm and inviting, reflecting Danjean's hospitality and passion for what he does, including visiting the dining room with guests.

Sweet Southern Comfort

The next morning, I had breakfast at Sweet Southern Comfort, a traditionally Southern eatery with a full bar. The owners graciously gave me a tour, and I was stunned at the Presidential exhibits hanging from the brick wall in the dining room. On loan from a private collector are the Presidential seal from President Kennedy, an American flag that flew over the White House until 1976, and several other artifacts.

Four presidents signed the flag, and I was amazed to see this kind of history, like I was at the public library. The restaurant also has a signed Coca-Cola advertisement from the 1930s featuring the first African American spokesman, a piece so rare that the company wants to acquire it from its owner. It seems that everywhere you go in town, you are greeted with friendly smiles and treasure troves of history representing the community spirit.

Iron & Grape Italian Kitchen

My last dinner was at Iron & Grape Italian Kitchen, a newly established fine-dining restaurant. The lighting and place settings were impeccable, and there was a steady crowd, even on a Tuesday evening. The elegant destination is operated by Chef Todd Misener and his wife, Kelli, who aim to bring something new to the region. A Culinary Institute of America graduate, Chef Misener has worked with incredible chefs, honing his style, which is evident in the dishes he prepares.

Iron & Grape also has an extensive wine list, with a subtle sophistication that blends well with the downtown district. The chef advocates for the craft of true scratch cooking and has cultivated a dining experience that should not be missed by anyone visiting DeFuniak Springs. The restaurant resides in the former home of Bogey's, a beloved culinary staple. The owners retired, leaving a hole downtown, and that's when the Miseners stepped in. The transition has been seamless and is a welcome addition to the community.

Chautauqua Vineyards and Winery

Chautauqua Vineyards and Winery was a fun stop and a fantastic experience. The small winery crafts Florida wines from muscadine grapes and other local fruits. There is also a wine bar where guests can sample the 19 complimentary wines and learn about the vineyard's history and significance to the region. The tasting bar overlooks the production room, allowing guests to see firsthand the dedication and pride that go into crafting each glass.

DeFuniak Springs aims to bring small-town America back and define what an "old Florida" town should be. Its hospitable community, historical sites, and diverse restaurants should place this town at the top of any travel itinerary. The area is a microcosm of Florida's unique history, attractions, and diverse culture, and the vibrant downtown atmosphere captures it all. To understand DeFuniak Springs is to understand a piece of the state's history.