An Unexpectedly Delightful Tour Through Idaho's Panhandle

Northern Idaho, better known as "the Panhandle," is a geographical chimney wedged, rather unassumingly, between Washington and Montana. In fact, I'm embarrassed to admit that despite living in Western Canada for over a decade, I never set foot, or wheels, in The Gem State - despite having frequented both its neighbors. Well, this past September, I finally plunged into the Panhandle and was met with a remarkable reception. The verdant Selkirk, Bitterroot, and Cabinet mountain ranges, clean, sizable lakes, robust, fish-filled rivers, collection of national forests, and vibrant communities immediately emerged from all angles. This sliver of the United States is tragically overlooked but, therefore, is untainted by excessive tourism or rampant metropolitans. So if you're looking to connect with nature, visit one-of-a-kind small towns, and meet some of the salt-of-the-earth citizens who oversee it all, then the Idaho Panhandle is the perfect place to start.

Bonners Ferry

As the Panhandle's northernmost (substantial) community, Bonners Ferry warmly welcomes Canadians (and other southbound travelers) to the region. This small, Boundary County city straddles the mighty Kootenay River, with a walkable downtown core beginning on the south side of the Kootenai River Bridge (yes, there are multiple spellings of the Blackfoot term). Highlights include the Kootenai River Brewing (the first of Idaho's many craft beer outlets), the Boundary County Museum, Bonners Ferry Gateway Visitors Center, the Saturday morning farmers market (which I was lucky enough to coincide with), and a healthy handful of shops, one-off eateries, and everyday amenities.

Outdoorsy folks can scoot west into the Kootenai National Wildlife Refuge or drop into the Kaniksu portion of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests. Road warriors will be happy to know that Bonners Ferry marks a continuation of the 280-mile International Selkirk Loop - one of 32 All-American Road National Scenic Byways and easily one of the top drives in the Rocky Mountains. In conjunction with a tour of some of the best small towns in interior British Columbia, and the other forthcoming highlights of this Panhandle excursion, only northeast Washington's portion remains to complete the coveted circuit.

Sandpoint

In the past, when I pondered Idaho, I pictured potatoes and sideroads, not sandy beaches, bustling parks, and inventive downtowns. Sandpoint shattered that prejudice. Situated where the curvaceous Lake Pend Oreille transitions into the Pend Oreille River (as well as Sand Creek), Sandpoint enjoys a lengthy beach, marina, and trail-lined shoreline. Sandpoint City Beach Park draws the summer crowds, whereas, in winter, they flock to the slopes of nearby Schweitzer - Idaho's largest ski resort. And all throughout the year, the commercial attractions of 1st Ave (bookended by the intriguing Cedar Street Bridge Public Market and the Sandpoint Community Hall) keep visitors satiated, entertained, and on trend.

Fanning out from the downtown core, explorative tourists might find themselves walking a few miles of the serene Pend d'Oreille Bay Trail, biking the commuter-friendly Sandpoint Byway and/or Sandpoint-Dover Community Trails, zipping around the freshwater lake on a rental boat, or settling into the synergistic courtyard shared between Evans Brothers Coffee, Matchwood Brewing Company, and Sandpoint Rock Climbing Gym - where live music and unpretentious socializing is practically guaranteed.

Priest River

Further west down Pend Oreille River, closing in on the Washington border, and rounding out Idaho's section of the aforementioned International Selkirk Loop (as well as the Panhandle Historic Rivers Passage Scenic Byway, which connects Sandpoint to Newport, WA) is humble old Priest River. This small, secretive, and surprisingly sculpted city makes for a perfect lunch stop (for you faster-paced travellers), or a throw-your-cares-to-the-wind weekend root-down (for anyone wishing to sample small-town living). Priest River is clean, safe, colorful, and with just enough amenities to keep things interesting. Pizza place? Check. Boujee coffee shop? Sure thing. Book store? Pub? Brewery? Diner? Art gallery? Historical highlights? Priest River's 1,700 residents have truly thought of everything.

Coeur d'Alene

The Panhandle's biggest city is that of Coeur d'Alene. Built on the northern shore of the long, slim, and scenic lake by the same name, this Kootenai County gem is fun, fresh, and worthy of an annualized vacation. Coeur d'Alene sports 125 downtown shops and restaurants, and nightlife not rivalled until Boise. Coeur d'Alenians also lay claim to the world's longest floating boardwalk, which encircles the marina and eponymous resort. From there, decide whether to hike the network of wilderness trails criss-crossing Tubbs Hill Park (to the east), board a lake cruise (to the west), or settle into one of the harborside restaurants or adult beverage huts.

If you and the family are still craving more, go track down the five Mudgy & Millie moose statues in what is part scavenger hunt, and part walking tour of downtown Coeur d'Alene's best features. Perhaps you'll make a mission of photographing them all, or perhaps you'll stop for another snack at one of the food trucks parked by the City Park, catch a musical performance at the impressive public library, or simply get swept up in the spirit of Sherman Ave.

Kellogg

It wasn't quite a ski season when Irina and I rolled through Kellogg, but Silver Mountain Ski Resort (another of northern Idaho's three major ski resorts) looked poised for the pending snow. But downhill thrills aside, this Shoshone County hideout marks the west entrance of Idaho's historic Silver Valley. Along with a rich mining history, this area has also been served by a seemingly bottomless timber industry and early American railroad expansions. Take a tour down memory lane by visiting the Mining and Smelting Museum, or jump back in time (seemingly) with a pint at Radio Brewing Company. Those with an exercise itch to scratch can double back to Silver Mountain, which acts as a mountain bike park in the fair-weather season or pedal the famous Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes, which parallels the river by the same name all the way east to our final panhandle destination (and then beyond).

Wallace

The dash of Old West introduced in Kellogg is jacked up to eleven in Wallace. In fact, every single building in this eccentric town has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places. As if that weren't bold enough, the mayor (with a creative nudge by the locals) officially declared Wallace, or rather, a manhole at the intersection of Bank and 6th, as the "Center of the Universe." The mining, logging, and railroad history is once again played up here to great touristic fanfare, but this once rag-tag, salacious town also broadcasts its defunct bordello backbone. Wallace deserves at least a few days of indulgence, for there are tours to take, backcountry trails to ride (Wallace actually boasts the largest mountain bike/snowmobile/ATV network on the planet), saloons and other watering holes to enjoy, and one heck of a quirky community to befriend.

Departing The Panhandle

When I first crossed the Canadian border into Idaho's Panhandle, I thought I was merely checking a box on my way over to the California Coast (where the real road trip was to begin). Not that a month cruising along the Pacific Ocean was anything to complain about, but in all honesty, I preferred the Panhandle. It was the road less travelled, the untouched gem, and the unexpectedly delightful standout of the entire North American van life adventure. I hope you have the chance to pay any or all of these four-season panhandle places a visit in 2025.