Embracing Change in Pai, Northern Thailand’s Former Hidden Gem

Pai's periphery, with its small farms, dusty backroads, Muay Thai residencies, and hilltop Buddhas, contrasts the nearby metropolis of Chiang Mai.

The northern Thai town of Pai used to be an undiscovered getaway for intrepid travelers. Situated in the lush highlands near the Myanmar border, hours removed from the nearest international airport, Pai represented a radical alternative to resort-centric beach destinations.

Nowadays, the once-traditional community has morphed to accommodate constant waves of Western tourists who roll into and out of town on cheap Chiang Mai shuttles. Don't get me wrong, I had a lovely stay in this pretty and popular place. But as with many aspects of life, satisfaction stems from properly calibrated expectations. So let's talk about Pai, Thailand.

The Good

Pai is a fun place, and everyone there is out to have a good time. I saw groups of travers like: 20-something backpackers on a quest for meaning; 30-something hippies trying to carve out an experimental ex-pat community; itinerant retirees checking off a long-awaited bucket list item, or trying to recapture the magic of their youth; and vacationing families eager to explore a novel, but safe environment.

As a 35-year-old travel writer, I suppose I embodied shades of all crowds.

I enjoyed the vibrant walking street, with its attractive businesses, pool table bars, and nightly pop-up vendors. I got a kick out of the local boxing, yoga, and even sound-healing classes. I slept in a bungalow, lulled to sleep by the sounds of the Pai River and its rickety bamboo bridges.

Pai is a farming village but is increasingly commercialized. This can be good and not-so-good.

Our first night in town, Irina and I went to a grilled cheese and wine joint on the secondary drag. I also spotted (and indulged) many vegetarian/vegan restaurants. Up until this point in my Thai travels, I had mostly been testing my banal British stomach with devil-level tom yum and som tam and "flexing" my once meatless diet because often only chicken or pork was available.

If you're drawn to Thailand for its landscape and whimsical itineraries but are unwilling, or unable, to dine as the locals do, then Pai's dense selection of modern, worldly foods will be undeniably valuable.

Tired travelers will also rejoice upon experiencing Pai's safe setting.

Right out of the gates, one of the biggest difference makers is how passive the dogs are. I've been to enough off-the-beaten-path places to tell you that aggressive canines can completely ruin the vibe and squash possibilities. As a runner, I was grateful to be able to pound the backroads into the surrounding hills without ever being confronted by a territorial mutt. The dogs in Pai either just sleep (even as you step right over them), wag their tail and request pets, or completely ignore you (despite the sometimes desperate offering of pets). Though sometimes dirty and visibly itchy, the street dogs seem happy and well cared for. Granted, every animal and situation is different, so I recommend ignoring the free-range doggos until you get a clear go-ahead, but compared to small towns in much of the world, Pai was a refreshing change of pace

Another of Pai's wonderful attributes is its ease of operation. Tours, transportation, and local events are well advertised, straight forward, and affordable with a favorable exchange rate. Whatever hostel, boutique hotel, or thatched bungalow enclave you're staying at will surely have posters for half, full, and multi-day outings run by local operators.

For as little as 100 baht, about three dollars US, you'll get picked up right outside your door, and driven to the area's natural and commercial highlights. The big show-stopper is the twice-weekly Tipsy Tubing - tourists in bathing suits "lazy river" down the district's namesake waterway.

Lastly, as someone interested in Thai culture's spiritual aspects, I was relieved to learn that Buddhism still has a home in Pai. There are two temple compounds right on Chai Songkhram Road - standing in comical contrast to the hedonism on the other side of the walls. Here, ordained monks practice Theravada Buddhism. These places welcome all respectful visitors who want to take in the ornate stupas, revered iconography, and general ambiance.

I could lean on these places for my morning meditation practice, and I was even invited to attend a communal gathering that brought together hundreds of locals to make offerings to the sangha.

Another happy place was the white Buddha statue of Wat Phra That Mae, which awaited atop several flights of stairs a few kilometers outside of town. Climbing those stairs was exerting; I saw it as an exercise in merit generation with an awesome view at the top.

The Not-So-Good

Conflicting ideas can both be true. When it comes to food, the widespread availability of cosmopolitan menus (good) does make it harder to find authentic cuisine (not-so-good). It's not impossible - just more removed than places like Chiang Mai or Bangkok.

I heard more than a few table neighbors requesting their dishes to be made "not spicy." If you want the real deal, you have to press the papaya salad street vendor to add more chili peppers, and you have to wander away from the commercial core to find homemade curries in roadside huts.

Pai has a busy, outdoor market. During the day, fresh-faced tourists pile out of vans onto the street while scooters and taxis weave through the crowds.

Thankfully, the shenanigans can't be heard from across the river, but if you rent a bed near the Pai Walking Street, then I imagine you'll have to reset your circadian rhythm.

Depending on when you visit northern Thailand, the climate might have a few curve balls to throw you. The drawbacks to the rainy season are obvious, but you might be praying for a good downpour after a few days of heat; temperatures in northern Thailand reach 105° Fahrenheit.

If you visit in March (as I did), be prepared for a steady canopy of smoke coming from the local farms that burn their fields to reset for the next crop cycle. The intensity changes with the wind, but man, those last two days in Pai were rough because of the thick smoke in the air.

Don't be that guy

If you are a foreign visitor, be extra cautious to model respectful social norms.

General tourism antics are one thing, but overt disrespect is just plain embarrassing to watch. The residents of Pai are friendly, humble, and given their various backgrounds, preferring of modesty. This is their tradition.

It is important to tread lightly in people's homes, remain open to the concepts of other cultures, and set a sustainable example. If Pai authorities get sick of barefoot hippies traipsing into restaurants (cleanliness of the feet is big in Thailand), underdressed tourists strutting about Buddhist monuments, or impatient British patrons issuing demands in English, then this whole party could come crashing down.

With all that said, Pai's current state developed because of both foreign and domestic contributions. Thai authorities encourage tourism, which has resulted in more revenue, but also the externalities of post-colonialism.

I'm left with similar sentiments when comparing Pai to tourist spots in my own country. I like that people come from all over the world to experience the best of Canada, and I know that it's an important part of the economy.

However, it is goush when people try to take selfies with wild animals and deface natural formations, for example. So, in the spirit of being the change you wish to see in the world, go have your slice of Pai, but consider the local customs as you do. Have some drinks and tube down the river, but bring a t-shirt to throw on for the walk back. Take a tour of the temple, but maybe don't pose in front of the Buddha statue for your own social media clout.

Bye Bye Pai

Let's bring it back around to the positives, of which Pai has plenty. Like the other postcard and TV show-worthy destinations throughout Thailand, the mountain town of Pai is popular for good reason. It is surrounded by beautiful scenery, filled with fun-loving people, and infused with both traditional culture and modern, international sensibilities. Pai may not be the hidden treasure it once was, but a dependable haven for visitors of all walks is not a bad identity either. There will always be the next tiny town for puritanical travelers to saunter into, so simply enjoy Pai for what it has become and do your best to ensure that the next batch of tourists can do the same.

Khap kun krap (thank you) for reading.