This Michigan Scenic Byway Is The Road Trip Of A Lifetime

Chugging up the spine of the Keweenaw Peninsula, the Copper Country Trail (US-41) showcases the raw beauty of Michigan's Upper Peninsula, as well as its instrumental mining history. This 47-mile National Scenic Byway begins at the double-decker Portage Lake Lift Bridge, between the towns of Houghton and Hancock, and rolls on to Copper Harbor: the state's northernmost inhabited place. En route, there are numerous mines, museums, and historic sites to take in, plus optional spurs unfurling Lake Superior beaches and mountaintop lookouts. Depending on each driver's persuasions, the Copper Country Trail can prioritize history, scenery, or a satisfying blend of both. Either way, this Michigan byway is the road trip of a lifetime.

Historical Context

Native Americans began mining copper on the Keweenaw Peninsula at least 8,000 years ago. This is the earliest known example of metalworking in North America, and led to the production of jewelry and fishhooks. It wasn't until the 19th century, however, that science and technology ramped up extraction. In 1841, Michigan's first state geologist, Douglass Houghton (whose name appears throughout the Copper Country Trail), made it known that the Keweenaw Peninsula harbored the largest pure copper deposit on the planet. Preceding even California's Gold Rush, this kick-started America's first industrial mineral boom.

Throughout the second half of the 19th century, the Calumet and Hecla Mining Company (C&H) and the Quincy Mining Company dominated production not only in Michigan but also accounted for the majority of all copper mined across the nation. The corresponding influx of eclectic immigrants sprouted several well-stocked and, in the case of Calumet, opulent towns. Unfortunately, such rapid development and extractive momentum led to the stripping of the UP's virgin forests (save for the white pines of Copper Harbor, which we'll visit on the drive). But what goes up must come down. The Great Depression exacerbated the decline in copper production, and in 1968, C&H closed its last mine. Today, Copper Country leans on heritage and eco-tourism.

As for the Copper Country Trail, it was formalized in 1994 as one of Michigan's first State Heritage Routes, now known as Pure Michigan Byways. At that time, the official route started from the community of Phoenix at the junction of M-26, but was extended down to Houghton's Lift Bridge in 2004. The following year, thanks to a coalition of petitioners, Copper Country Trail was upgraded to a National Scenic Byway. It is one of three such federally designated routes in Michigan, and one of 184 nationwide.

Getting There

Simply getting to the start of the Copper Country Trail is a road trip in itself. The closest major cities are Green Bay, WI (220 miles south of Houghton) and Minneapolis, MN (350 miles southwest). Detroit is 550 miles to the southeast, with the bulk of both the Upper and Lower Peninsulas in between. Whichever corner of the state you start from, you'll arrive at the sister cities of Houghton and Hancock by cutting up the base of the Keweenaw Peninsula via M-26, or by hugging the shore of Portage Lake on US-41. From there, the main route is all US-41 until Copper Harbor.

The Route: Highlights & Side Quests

Houghton

Those of you who have already banked serious miles getting here should take their time in Houghton, for it is the last semblance of common civilization. Signaled by the commemorative Miner Statue, the highway slows to usher in an esteemed main street along College Ave, filled with function-forward shops and restaurants, plus a couple of highly rated hotels. The A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum is on theme, and the Isle Royale National Park Visitor Center might inspire a subsequent adventure, but as for the drive itself, it is the Portage Lake Lift Bridge that hogs the spotlight. Being the world's widest and heaviest double-decked lift bridge, it kicks the Copper Country Trail off in style. At present, this is the only terrestrial means of entering the Keweenaw Peninsula.

Quincy Mine

Winding up and over Hancock, the Quincy Mine is one of 23 Heritage Sites within the wide-ranging Keweenaw National Historical Park. Noticeable for its large gray shaft, red-brick NPS center, old steam engine, and ghost structures, a visit to Quincy Mine can involve a free wander of these above-ground facilities, but also a deep dive into the world of underground mining. The two-hour guided tour goes upwards of 360 feet beneath the surface, into tunnels worked by Quincy miners in the 1860s. The Quincy Mining Company ran the operation from 1864 to 1945.

Calumet

Calumet's National Landmark Historic District is the epicenter of Copper Country's storied past. Home to the Keweenaw National Historical Park Visitor Center, the Keweenaw Heritage Center, Copper Country Firefighters History Museum, The Calumet Theatre (opened 1900), Italian Hall Historical Marker, and the Coppertown USA Mining Museum, Calumet wears its history on its sleeve. But even beyond the formal sites, downtown Calumet's sizable, copper-toned brick buildings and weathered storefronts keep the air of scrappy riches alive.

M-26 Detour: Eagle River & Eagle Harbor

Rather than take the straight-shot drive to Copper Harbor, consider veering west on M-26 in favor of the timeless enclaves and shoreline scenery it affords. During the return trip, you can rejoin US-41 for its enchanting forest canopy and pit-stop tour of Delaware Mine. For now, enjoy the bridge, falls, dam, and museum quadfecta of Eagle River, followed by the tranquility and Great Lakes maritime history at Eagle Harbor, with a couple of sandy sanctuaries in between.

Tertiary Spur: Brockway Mountain

This detour within a detour requires a bit of a hardier vehicle, but is well worth the extra grunt. Turning off M-26 onto Brockway Mountain Drive, motorists climb to the top of the minor namesake peak, gaining sweeping views of Lake Superior and the infinite forests of the Keweenaw Peninsula, plus a stylish descent into Copper Harbor in the process.

Copper Harbor

Whether you arrived via US-41, M-26, or Brockway Mountain Drive, Copper Harbor and its 130 or so permanent residents welcome all committed drivers to the top of Michigan, and one of the most isolated places in the Lower 48. Standout historical sites situated right off of Gratiot Street include the 1850 One Room Schoolhouse, the circa-1844 Fort Wilkins (now a Historic State Park), and at the very end of the line, the US-41 memorial markers. What started as Native American footpaths was adopted by early fur traders and missionaries, then morphed into a major Michigan roadway. US-41 now runs through eight states and roughly 2,000 miles, culminating in Miami, Florida. A life-changing road trip for another time, perhaps.

Estivant Pines

This optional add-on involves taking a couple of forest service roads outside of Copper Harbor that require a vehicle with modest clearance, followed by some light hiking. Estivant Pines Wilderness Nature Sanctuary protects two groves of giant, old-growth white pines, one of the last stands of its kind in Michigan. A round trip from the parking lot, including both grove loops, amounts to about 2.5 miles of forest bathing.

Epilogue: Beaches

You've boned up on your copper mining history and rubbed elbows with salt-of-the-earth Keweenaw communities, but before you put the Copper Country Trail in your rearview, you might want to pencil in some beach time. They aren't on theme with the byway, but this National Scenic Byway visits some nice beaches. The aforementioned M-26 detour parallels Great Sand Bay en route between Eagle River and Eagle Harbor, and follows that up with a cute village beach upon arrival in the latter. On the way back down US-41, you'll also have the option to turn southeast on Gay-Lac La Belle Road, ultimately reaching Bete Gris Beach and Preserve. And finally, having reconnected with Calumet, you might want to head west on M-203 to reach F.J. McLain State Park, before being seamlessly looped back around to our starting point at Portage Lake Lift Bridge. None of these stops counts toward the byway's official mileage, but each one is well worth the detour.