Discovering The Queen City Of The Kootenays, British Columbia

Nelson, British Columbia, sits in the southeastern corner of the province and is nestled deep within the awe-inspiring Selkirk Mountains, a portion of the larger Rocky Mountain Range. This city of around 11,000 residents is among the biggest and most economically important in the region, which says something about the remoteness one might find if they make it out that way.

Once a goldrush mining town, then a logging town- since the mid-80s when the last of the biggest local mills closed, Nelson has reinvented itself into a hub for tourism year-round. This is precisely why I decided to make it the last stop on my trip through the southern Canadian Rockies this summer.

During my visit, I had the opportunity to personally experience much (but seemingly not enough) of what this beautiful small city has to offer, on top of being able to chat with locals and get the inside scoop on what one could do for fun during all seasons of the year.

Getting to Nelson

Despite being in British Columbia, Nelson is slightly further from Vancouver than Calgary, which if you didn't know, is situated in the neighboring province of Alberta, a less than 7-hour drive away (versus an 8-hour drive from Vancouver).

Passing through the Rocky Mountains is a common enough journey, and was something I'd have to do anyway given that my starting point was in Calgary. Although the Highway 1 route, which heads directly west of Calgary, is the most popular due to its proximity to the city and the fact that it passes several world-class landmarks along the way such as Banff and Lake Louise, I took the more southern route through Crowsnest Pass, shaving about an hour off my journey and giving me an opportunity to see a far less crowded portion of the beautiful Rockies. This route still included some notable roadside stops, like Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Frank Slide (the remnants of a devastating rockslide that engulfed a large portion of a nearby town in 1903. It features a very nice and informative visitor center too), and several towns along the way, such as Blairmore, Sparwood, Cranbrook, and Creston (all of which offer abundant amenities and several worthwhile attractions of their own).

I can't necessarily speak on what the journey from Vancouver would be like besides the fact that you'd be passing through some of the most beautiful and diverse landscapes in Canada on the way, including the lush Pacific coastal area from the start, the Mediterranean-like Okanagan Valley in the middle (a fantastic fruit and wine producing region in the warmer months), and of course, the western side of the Rocky Mountains where Nelson is located.

I did have some savvy friends from eastern Canada who were also visiting Nelson, and they decided to land at the nearest international airport in the city of Kelowna. This made for a relatively light 4-hour road trip headed east with their rental car.

Those coming to Nelson from the United States on the road can access the area through a number of ports of entry, with the nearest being the one at Metaline Falls in the far northeastern corner of Washington State.

What's There to Do in and Around Neslon?

Nelson and its surrounding area are full of activities that can easily fill up your time while there. Whether you're here for a day or a few, and whether you are looking for adventure in the great outdoors, an educational trip through its history, a lazy day by the water, or whatever else, I'm sure just about anyone visiting can be accommodated happily. Check out these attractions, many of which I experienced personally, and some of which came highly recommended by the ever-friendly locals.

Nelson Museum, Archives & Gallery

It may just be me, but when I arrive in a small town, especially one like Nelson, I don't mind stopping at its local museum first to get a taste of the place's history and culture. The Nelson Museum, Archives & Gallery, housed in a beautifully restored building from 1902 in the heart of downtown's Vernon Street, features, as you may have guessed, both an excellent museum and a gallery.

The rotating gallery features art and other kinds of exhibitions from both local and visiting guests. On the other hand, the upper floor contains a museum focusing on local history, and for those who really want to dive deep into Neslon's storied past, there is also a heavily stocked archive detailing family histories, past news stories, and a huge collection of photography taken in the region.

Oh yeah... and there is a Cold War-era nuclear bunker in the neighboring building in which you can book a tour guided by the museum's staff. Any Fall Out fans out there planning a visit?

Baker Street

I got the feeling that Baker Street was the heart of the city, geographically at least, but culturally very much so too. This main thoroughfare cuts right through the middle of downtown and is home to many of the city's best restaurants, hotels, shops, and other amenities. A simple walk along it will give you an appreciation for the old buildings that were saved and restored specifically to keep the place beautiful and full of small-town charm.

Since the local bookshop is generally my second stop in any town (and a bane for my wallet), I quickly found that a short walk from my hotel room at the Best Western Plus took me to Otter Books Inc., which caters to those who want to buy new books. I then took a few steps around the corner to Packrat Annie's, an eclectic store for used books with a cafe conveniently located inside it too.

As mentioned, Baker Street also conveniently contains a wide selection of eateries and bars, giving it a particularly lively nightlife on weekends and other busy days of the year.

Brewery Crawl

Nelson has 3 main breweries, a great number because I can actually say I visited every great beer spot in town over the weekend without feeling like I "overdid it." There's even a specific route that locals will recommend to hit them all: unless your aim is to truly burn off the calories you've been drinking, it behooves you to start at Nelson Brewing Company, then make your way down the long, steep slope the city of Nelson rests on to Backroads Brewing Company on Baker Street, and finally land at Torchlight Brewing Co. right near the shores of Kootenay Lake.

I can honestly recommend all of these spots individually, each featuring their own unique styles of locally made beer and other beverages. These breweries were also staffed by very helpful and friendly individuals, many of whom made good recommendations for other things I can see and do in Nelson.

Nelson Farmers Market

The Nelson Farmers Market was mentioned to me on a few occasions during my travels around town, so I figured I had to mention it here. For over 40 years, this seasonal market has run from early May to late October, usually on Saturday afternoons. You will have the opportunity to purchase produce, grown both nearby and from the neighboring Okanagan Valley, and other locally-made crafts and wares. There are also a number of food trucks set up and other spots where you can grab a tasty bite during your visit.

Live music and other events, like a special Mother's Day garden, and the Harvest Fest in the Fall, are also something to look out for while touring around this longstanding tradition in Nelson.

Go for a Hike

Whether you'd like to stay right in town or foray into its outer reaches, a good walk is always at hand in Nelson. For those not looking to venture too far, the best options are to take a stroll along the surprisingly lengthy shoreline or make the steep yet short trek up to Gyro Park at the east end downtown where you will be rewarded with a bird's eye view of the city. The lakeshore path mentioned earlier hugs Kootenay Lake and begins at the Prestige Lakeside Resort, then goes through the lush Rotary Park, and ends at the base of Big Orange Bridge (named because of the fact that it's big... and orange).

Over the bridge, which spans across the lake to the north side of Nelson, is the trailhead for Pulpit Rock, probably the city's most popular hike. This out-and-back trail is about 3.5 km in total length and will take you up a thigh-burning 316 meters in elevation. The ordeal is worth it, however, as you will get a completely unobstructed view of Kootenay Lake and downtown Nelson from the top.

A very short walk can also be found at Cottonwood Falls Park at the end of Railway Street, right near where the Farmers Market is held. This small city park hosts a Japanese Garden and a surprisingly fast-flowing waterfall, with an assortment of benches and other places to sit nearby.

Kokanee Creek Provincial Park

It is no wonder that this region of the country is filled with top-notch parks and wildlands. Grohman Narrows Provincial Park, Cottonwood Lake Regional Park, and Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park are just a few of the ones within close proximity to Nelson, but, let's focus on Kokanee Creek Provincial Park. Not only is it a brief (less than a half-hour) drive from town, but the drive itself is an experience of its own. The scenic Highway 3A you will be taking cuts through the base of the deep Kootenay River Valley and is a perfect way to see the majestic beauty of the area along its winding, rolling lanes between the park and Nelson.

Kokanee Provincial Park sits on a verdant spit of land that juts out onto the Kootenay River. Its forests hold several examples of giant cedar trees, streams that are the site of salmon spawning in late summer, and amenities like signed boardwalks, a trail system, campgrounds, picnic areas, and an informative visitor center (called the "Kokanee Creek Nature Center") with a gift shop and a cafe.

An Afternoon on Kootenay Lake

Kootenay Lake was absolutely booming during my time there in early August. From the various boats cruising its waters (including craft ranging from sailboats and speed boats to paddleboards) to the busy sandy beaches with designated and roped-off swimming areas, it was clear that this pleasant body of water is a main draw for many visitors.

The biggest beach, located near the base of the Big Orange Bridge at the far east end of Rotary Park, is easily accessible on foot from downtown Nelson. There is also ample parking nearby if you decide to drive there.

There also appeared to be a couple of large boat docks that served as places for locals to park their craft and for canoers/kayakers to embark on a paddle around the lake.

Hit the Slopes

Although I did not visit in the winter (but in the dead of an intense summer heat wave instead) and I am not much of a skier or snowboarder myself, I got the sense that Nelson turns into a real top-notch ski town as soon as snow hits the ground. Between the multiple bartenders who claim to simply be saving money until ski season starts and, I mean, one cursory glance at the surrounding landscape... I had no doubt that the area is probably a bit of a mecca for anyone who loves winter sports.

The mountains that encase Nelson are home to a number of ski hills, the most famous of which seems to be Whitewater Ski Resort, just a 20-minute drive south. Here, you will find a huge selection of downhill slopes that cater to all skill levels and a vast network of cross-country skiing trails that extend down to the Nelson Nordic Ski Club and beyond.

Many of the same great restaurants, cafes, shops, and hotels are still open in Nelson in the winter to warm you up before or after a long day out in the cold.