Seeing America Via the Amtrak

Midway through a North American road trip, and right in the thick of West Texas (of all places), our transmission went. Not wanting to end the adventure but also unwilling to pump thousands of dollars into a vehicle that had already seen too many Canadian winters, my girlfriend and I set our sights on the Amtrak. I knew that the U.S. had a reasonable rail system, but after a slew of European travels, I simply assumed that it paled in comparison (or would be prohibitively expensive). In fact, if it weren't for a friendly local tipping us off, I never would have guessed (or have even thought to Google) that there was a station in little old Alpine that could take us, ultimately, anywhere we wanted to go. Thus, we bid farewell to our camperized Ford Transit, which had taken us some 13,000 miles (mostly through small towns and naturescapes) in seven months, and boarded the train to several American cities that we otherwise would not have seen. Here's a taste of what backpacking on the Amtrak is actually like.

Boarding in a Tumbleweed Town

One of the first misconceptions that I had about America's rail system is that it graces even the smallest of towns with its presence - not every day, but often enough. I would have assumed it was just the major hubs (i.e., LA, New York, Chicago, etc.) that had stations. So when our van broke down in Van Horn, we needed only to limp onto Alpine - another podunk town in West Texas - to catch the train.

With some five hours to spare after our Uber dropped us off, I elected to take a self-guided walking tour of the unassuming place. What I found first (being that it was directly across from the station) was a commercial district reeling from a bad fire. But looking a little closer, I was pleased to discover remarkable stretches of street art in the alleys behind the charred shops. The displays demonstrated resilience and a sure sign that the sun would indeed rise again.

Further on, I spotted the cute cafes, regal government buildings, independent bookstore, and one-off taverns that tickle a tourist's fancy. Immediately behind the station, along Murphy Ave, Alpine even has a playful Old West strip that is now home to quirky BnBs, art studios, and most notably, The Ritchey - a historic hotel-turned-bar and music venue.

This type of exploration is one of the things I love about slow travel. A several-hour layover in an airport is a drag. There's nowhere to go and only expensive sandwiches to keep one satiated. But a train layover is a chance to see a place you might otherwise never have come to and, in all likelihood, will never see again. At a time when efficiency is overemphasized (and especially in a country where hustle is the cornerstone of its culture), why not take an aimless walk or order a coffee to stay?

The Cost of Comfort

Recently, I penned a piece outlying the wide price ranges for Amtrak travel. At first, I was delighted to find that a last-minute coach seat from Alpine to San Antonio was only $40 (USD). However, I incorrectly assumed that I would be able to sleep during the eight-hour overnight voyage. How very wrong I was. The seats are plenty comfortable for an upright posture, but much like an airplane, there is no position that can be adopted that facilitates significant shut-eye. Reclining simply slides one down the slick, pleather seats, meaning that leg muscles have to be engaged against the footrest to maintain equilibrium. So, in the end, even though I saved a lot of money, I lost a ton of sleep - more than unlimited refills of Denny's coffee could make up for (there's one a few blocks from the San Antonio station for any of you early arrivals).

One sleepless Amtrak experience convinced Irina and me to shell out for a private room on our next overnight segment. This would come on the "City of New Orleans" line to Chicago - a 900-mile, 19-hour affair that set us back $622 (for two people). Was it worth it? We'll get there. But first we have a few more spots to explore.

Highlights from San Antonio

Pleasant surprise #2 came in the form of San Antonio's Riverwalk. Our target destination was actually Austin, but being that it was on a tangential track, we thought we'd give this other famous Texas city a try first. Elegant by day and frenetic by night, this manicured stretch of the San Antonio River exhibits a safe, eclectic, and sprawling attraction - something that evades many major downtowns. With tour boats passing by, live music reverberating between skyscraper hotels, restaurant patios pressed against one another, tropical foliage lining the cobblestone walkways, and rainbow lighting overlaying it all, this part of San Antonio has a vaguely European feel to it.

Of course, no trip to San Antonio is complete without a tour of the Alamo. This humble Spanish mission served as an infamous battleground between a group of 200 Texan military men and thousands of Mexican forces in 1836. The 13-day Battle of the Alamo is still a source of pride for residents of this rebellious state and clearly intriguing for out-of-towners. On an average Tuesday in November, the crowds were robust.

Enjoying Some Yuks in Austin

Austin, Texas, has risen in the ranks to become one of the most iconic American cities. It has already been established as the "Live Music Capital of the World" and now looks to be the budding "Comedy Capital of the World." One of our bucket-list items for this entire American saga (van-life portion included) was seeing a show at the Comedy Mothership. I don't know if it was luck or if the lineups are just that good on a regular basis, but the blend of newbies and veterans in the Little Boy theatre left us with busted guts and ear-to-ear smiles. Austin certainly has its downsides, but for a couple of eager transients, it was worth the hype.

Delays and Buses

Riding the Amtrak isn't always a straightforward affair. Case in point, our next train to New Orleans was delayed, bit by bit, until finally, after 10 hours, all travelers were boarded onto a coach bus instead. We thankfully caught wind of the delay via email updates and so intentionally held off checking out of our hotel until closer to departure. But many would-be passengers arrived promptly at 6 a.m. and were left high and dry all day. I honestly assumed that staff would provide some free food and drinks for the trouble, but all that we got was an airplane-sized bottle of water and bag of pretzels, followed by a 15-minute stop at a gas station market, where we were able to wrangle up some grub (on our own dime). No one seemed to know what was going on. And when we got into New Orleans, our bus driver had to pull over (at 2 a.m.) and ask for directions to the station.

I might have tucked this away in my mind as a one-off flub, but then I overheard the same thing happen to Memphis-bound patrons a week later. For some reason, there weren't enough seats on the train to accommodate the valid ticket holders, and for some reason, that meant that everyone, on the conductor's orders, had to board a bus instead. Look, there is a time and a place for the bus. Lord knows I've passed many thousands of miles of the Flix and Greyhound routes of the world. But when you've envisioned the train and paid for the train, a bus is a big downgrade.

Note: In all fairness to Amtrak, they did end up crediting my account for the entire ticket price.

New Experiences in New Orleans

Austin has been on my wishlist for the last few years, but I've wanted to see The Big Easy for as long as I can remember. My travels, however, have always veered elsewhere. There have been pilgrimages on the Camino de Santiago, eco-adventures in Ecuador, and then even once we got stateside, our campervan always pointed toward outstanding national parks and underrated small towns. Switching to Amtrak was the silver-lining impetus I needed to delve into the big cities.

New Orleans, Louisiana, or NOLA, for short, is a fascinating place. As a travel writer, I'm perhaps too liberal with the word historic. But there is no other way to encapsulate this eclectic, pulsating place. The look, feel, sound, and taste of downtown New Orleans sets a timeless stage wherever you go. The city has also done an excellent job of erecting informative plaques to punctuate the scene with historical facts.

NOLA's newest museum, Vue Orleans, is another prime spot to visit for an interactive overview of the Indigenous landscape, the slave trade, the birth of jazz, the culinary advancements, the legacy of Hurricane Katrina, and many other highs and lows that make this place so colorful. Vue Orleans gets the message across with touchscreen presentations and immersive movies, but it also drives home the brilliance of the city with a 360-degree observation deck 34 stories above the Mississippi River.

Of course, much like Sixth Street in Austin, New Orleans's action is based predominantly around Bourbon Street in the French Quarter. It's loud, it's crowded, and it's overpriced, but it's still a really fun time. And while a night of reckless abandon does the soul well on occasion, I was also happy to see that the famed (to some, infamous) neighborhood had many lower-key nooks and crannies to discover during the day.

The Cross-Country Cap-Off (Private Room Edition)

As alluded to earlier, Irina and I decided to give the private roomette a go for our northbound crossing of the continental United States. For $622, we were given our own little nook, with seats that converted into a bed. We also had access to the shower facilities (a first for me on a train), the 1st Class dining car (two free meals were included, plus complimentary snacks and beverages), and the panorama viewing car, which had extra windows on the ceiling to enhance the passing American landscape.

As pleased as I was regarding the accessible ticket prices for shorter coach trips, I have to say that the mid-range option felt overpriced (the full-blown sleeper car was completely out of the question). By one of the employees' own admission, the facilities haven't been updated since the 90s, meaning many little amenities (ex., the water fill station, temperature control system, and attendant call button) no longer worked. The curtains also failed to block out the hall lights, which beamed into the cabin all through the night. Not that that mattered, as the incessant blaring of the train's horn made sleep once again impossible - even with heavy-duty silicone ear plugs that I brought aboard (none were provided). Obviously, a courteous toot when approaching a crossing makes sense, but for whatever reason, American trains average around 187 battle cries per intersection (in my sleep-deprived state, I exaggerate only slightly).

At the risk of sounding annoyingly posh and ungrateful, I point only to the ticket price in my defense. Such a steep investment raises one's expectations at a commensurate rate. Sure, splitting the roomette two ways (i.e., $311/person) made it only about $100-115 more than a coach ticket for the same journey (note: this was mere days before Thanksgiving, so prices were up across the board). However, a solo traveler would have to pay roughly $500 for his/her roomette. So, for Irina and me, the meals/snacks, beverages, and shower may have bridged the value gap sufficiently, but if I were to make the trip again by myself, I would opt for another coach ticket and just pack some grab-n-n-go meals.

Bon Voyage

My experiences on Amtrak were a mixed bag, but ultimately, positive enough to recommend to my peers. If you're on a budget but don't feel like flying everywhere or suffering through the same old bus routine, then a handful of coach tickets should get you to (or close to) any of America's top attractions in a unique fashion. If money is no object and you're looking to replicate the romance of European travel or perhaps reconnect with your youthful exploits, then by all means, book those private rooms. It may tax the body a bit, but gazing out the window of a locomotive, coffee in hand, free to move around as you please - there's no more rewarding way to see the country.