The Treasures of Montana

Western Montana wanders headlong into the Northern Rocky Mountains. Some of America's top-rated national parks rub elbows with adventurous yet laid-back alpine towns; plus, there are a few freshwater lakes and lesser-known state parks to bridge the gaps. Driving down from Alberta, I was able to get an in-depth look at the Treasure State's scenic hemisphere, from the wonders of Glacier National Park to the hubs surrounding Flathead Lake to the various college towns and overlooked turnouts. If you find yourself musing about an upcoming Montana meander, then check out this vicarious, top-to-bottom road trip for inspiration.

Glacier National Park

Nestled up against the border of Alberta and its Canadian cousin, Waterton Lakes National Park, Glacier National Park is significant not only for its scenery but also as an example of what global stewardship can look like. As the name suggests, Glacier is replete with high-altitude ice sheets (though, unfortunately, all are trending toward extinction). It also has its share of pristine alpine lakes, towering waterfalls, user-friendly trails, and just the right amount of infrastructure. Plus, with interactive ranger programs, Glacier National Park is our #1 choice for families.

Glacier's premier attraction, the Going-to-the-Sun Road, winds its way high into the arresting peaks - bisecting the one-million-acre wilderness, crossing the Continental Divide, topping out at Logan Pass, and connecting Apgar Village with St. Mary's (i.e., the two terminus visitor centers) in the process. Camera-teasing and neck-straining highlights await at every turn, so plan to take this drive slow. Oh, and seeing as the peak-season traffic has forced the National Parks Service to implement a reservation system, book a time slot in advance, or plan to get there super early.

Before we move on, I'd like to leave you with one more friendly suggestion. Because the GTTS gains so much altitude in a stop-and-go fashion (and then descends at a commensurate rate), it can be hard on one's vehicle. For instance, driving an overloaded camper van with a questionable transmission led to near-catastrophic overheating issues (one of the unexpected tribulations of North American van life). No one else looked to be struggling, but given that there is no cell service for pretty much the entire 50-mile journey, it's best to come with a faithful steed and some just-in-case provisions. Otherwise, the road will be paved and well-maintained, and you will be in good company the entire way. Alternatively, Glacier offers narrated, hop-on, hop-off shuttle tours. So, if you'd rather focus on enjoying the views, know that this is a viable option.

Whitefish

Less than an hour's drive southwest of Glacier, the four-season resort town of Whitefish is a perfect place to root down for a couple of days. Fair-weather visitors can check out the municipal beach (which is connected to downtown via a paved, multi-use community path) or the paddle-friendly one over at the namesake state park (both are along the southern shores of Whitefish Lake). Afterward, check out the live music and food truck scene at the outdoor venue, Thirty-Eight, hit up one of the many hopin' water holes (which also normally belt out the jams), or, if the timing aligns, catch the eclectic farmers market in Depot Park on Tuesday night which (you guessed it), also does live music.

If you're a winter warrior, then Whitefish will happily oblige all the same (if not more). Whitefish Ski Resort is minutes up the road, and the now-frozen Whitefish Lake becomes a wonderland for ice skating.

Kalispell/Lone Pine State Park

Kalispell didn't capture my heart like many of Western Montana's destinations, but I sensed the potential. For now, I would at least recommend kicking back with a cup of joe along the Main Street Commercial Historic District (which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places) or cruising by the Conrad Mansion (where period actors lead tours of the restored 1895 residence).

If you'd rather trade in Kalispell's grit for an elevated natural experience (literally), head up the hill to Lone Pine State Park. This under-visited gem has a well-mapped system of forested trails and a mountaintop panoramic view that frames the city in a whole new light. The $8 state pass can actually be used for the rest of the day at any other park - perfect if you've just come from Whitefish State Park or are heading to one of the three Flathead State Park units at or near our next entry.

Bigfork

Bigfork is big fun. Perched on the north end of the sizable and beautiful Flathead Lake, this small town is equally artsy and active. The dual strip downtown has a modernized Old West feel to it, and each gallery, gift shop, cafe, and yoga studio fills the space in a thoughtful manner. As a digital nomad, I felt right at home on Birch Provisions' boppin' patio on the second floor above Electric Ave, and Fieldhead's easy-going venue, hidden ever-so-slightly away from the touristic core over on Osborn. As a runner, I was delighted to discover the robust nature trail paralleling the Swan River - a perfect warm-up for an afternoon stand-up paddleboard session, thanks to the good folks at Base Camp Bigfork.

As luck would have it, my girlfriend and I rolled through town on the perfect day of the week. All summer long (from Memorial Day to Labor Day), the Bigfork Monday Market brings vendors, musicians, and sociable locals together. The sound of the jovial chatter, local talent, and babbling river makes the Montana festival tradition proud (note: several more are coming in this article).

As for camping out, Wayfarers State Park does a lot with a small space. Though close-knit, the drive-in campsites still feel private and quaint. The day-use area is perfect for swimming and/or launching a boat. I even spotted a few brave souls spread out on the sheer, rocky shoreline, plunging into the waters from 15 feet (or so) above.

Missoula

This Montana college town cashes in a pinch of its mountain charm for an influx of social outlets. The Heart of Missoula District is kitted out with the expected mix of coffee shops and bars, plus a broader range of retail than has yet been seen on our southbound venture. With that said, just beyond downtown, the University District brings it back home. Here, the prestigious red-brick halls and dormitories of the University of Montana surround a central grassy courtyard known as The Oval. And behind the stately University Hall, Mount Sentinel stands guard. As with other upcoming Montanian locations, Missoula built a large, white "M" into the side of the hill, with a switchback trail leading to it from the university's parking area. This manageable grunt is a quick and satisfying workout and a way to lean into the school, nay, and town pride (more on this when we get to Butte).

If one continues up Sentinel, the trail diversifies and reveals even better Clark Fork River Valley views. Hike further still, and you will reach the 1890 Historical Copper Mine site. If that sort of thing tickles your fancy for history, then consider checking off the quadfecta of local museums (i.e., the Historical Museum at Fort Missoula, the National Museum of Forest Service History, the Montana Natural History Center, and the Montana Museum of Art & Culture).

Anaconda

In celebration of the Year of the Snake, visiting Anaconda is only fitting in 2025. Named after the Anaconda Copper Mining Company, this Deer Lodge County community continues to show reverence (and have fun with) the smelting industry that gave birth to the town. For starters, the hilltop stack (now decommissioned) has been turned into a rather aberrant state park (i.e., the Anaconda Stack State Park). Though not much more than a viewing area (from which you can also spot Anaconda's big, white "A" on the adjacent mountain) and some interpretive signs, it is still worth the two-minute detour out of downtown.

Just like in Bigfork, my visit to Anaconda coincided with another spirited festival. During the second weekend in August, Smeltermens Day (which is actually three days) takes over. The townspeople certainly turned out in supportive numbers this past summer. When I pulled up, Central Park was pulsing with food trucks and Brewfest patrons -- all of whom were uplifted by a local band reverberating out from the gazebo.

One last suggestion to keep with the theme (though I'm sure there are more smelting-based treasures to be uncovered in Anaconda): Smelter City Brewing is definitely worth checking out. Yes, it upholds the high standards of Montana's craft brewery scene, but it is also a fabulously repurposed venue with tasty tacos to boot.

Butte

Butte is most certainly a beaut! "The Richest Hill on Earth" not only claims a wealth of mining history but also one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts in the country. Add in the plethora of local and surrounding trailheads—one of which is the indefatigable Continental Divide National Scenic Trail—and you've got yourself a pretty picture. With that said, downtown Butte is not without its weathered edges, but personally, I don't want my historic mining towns to be overly polished.

Lady Luck was once again on my side when it came to visiting Butte. While strolling the streets lined with early 19th century, rusty-red buildings (many of which are on the National Register of Historic Places), I saw an old derrick up on the hill. There, my feet propelled me, only to find that the town's annual An Ri Ra festival was in full swing. This homage to the town's Irish roots saw dance teams and traditional bands from the surrounding area come out to perform various aspects of Celtic culture.

West Yellowstone

The second of Montana's famous national parks is also America's oldest: Yellowstone. And while Wyoming claims the vast majority of this 2.2 million acre national treasure, Montana does get in on the action - specifically, the northwest corner. Should this be your point of entry (and it has every right to be, given its proximity to Old Faithful and the Grand Prismatic Spring), then the town of West Yellowstone would make a sensible base camp. Granted, this was my least favorite stop of the Montana tour, but that's simply because West Yellowstone is a touristic/commercial hub. If a novelty t-shirt is what you seek, then you will have many, many outlets to choose from. But if you need a place to fuel up (in every sense of the word) before heading into a park, then this place will have your back there, too.

One active recommendation I would offer to those passing through West Yellowstone with some time to spare is the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center. This non-profit wildlife park/education facility balances caring for injured, abandoned, or overly-habituated animals and public spectacle. As a wildlife lover, I reveled at the chance to see grizzly bears and wolves (plus otters and birds of prey) up close, without the intense fear and danger that would accompany such sightings in the wild. Knowing that these animals have been rescued from harm and are now thriving also helps to justify the experience more than your average zoo.

Big Sky

This high-octane mountain resort town is divided into three personable parts. "The Canyon," hugs the receptionless Gallatin River Valley, giving visitors a chance to unplug, but not necessarily unwind. The Canyon is all about whitewater rafting, top-notch fishing, horseback riding and hiking.

The middle third of Big Sky, "The Meadow," is a great place to do some shopping, grab a bite on a sunny patio, and learn about the Big Sky and Greater Yellowstone Area (the visitor center will hook you up with free brochures aplenty). If you're in town on a Thursday during the summer season, scoot over to Len Hill Park for Big Sky's free festival, Music in the Mountains.

Big Sky's upper section, "The Mountain," is home to the Big Sky Resort, which, thanks to its speedy and comprehensive gondola network, functions as both a ski hill and mountain bike playground. For those not black-diamond-destined, all sorts of pop-up activities (such as a harnessed trampoline and kids climbing wall) can be enjoyed around the resort village at the base of Lone Mountain.

Bozeman

In my opinion, Bozeman takes the crown for most compelling downtown. It is blessed with personable shops, eateries, and historic hotels - plus a slicker, more welcoming vibe than places such as Butte or Missoula. But what made Bozeman out all the more was its own M-Trail, incomparable national forest, and the captivating Museum of the Rockies. The former upped the ante over Missoula by encouraging participants to carry a rock to the top in honor of the Montana State University class of 1915 (who originally concocted the project). Volunteers then paint them white and add them to the stalwart letter so all who pass by Bozeman can see it as plain as day.

For those seeking more of a raw Montana wilderness experience, load up the trekking poles, kayak, or cross-country skies and head deep into the Custer Gallatin National Forest. The trailheads surrounding Hyalite Reservoir were particularly eye-catching, but I doubt you can go wrong in this 3-million-acre sanctuary.

The Museum of the Rockies merges compelling dinosaur fossils (rivalling that of the Royal Tyrell Museum in Drumheller, Alberta), with outdoor homestead exhibits and a dazzling planetarium, which at the time of my visit was showing a documentary about the building of a hypothetical, futuristic, Moon base.

Livingston

So I know I just said Bozeman has the best Main Street District, but an argument could also be made in favor of Livingston. Perhaps a tie is permissible! Main is lined with those two-story, rectangular red-brick buildings (now well-associated with Montana) that instantly harken back to the days of the Wild West. Today's difference is that those old-fashioned shells have all been turned into chic coffee shops, classic mercantiles, and antique dealers. As Main strays from Interstate 90, it naturally funnels over to Sacajawea Park on the beautiful Yellowstone River - quickly reminding visitors that they are, in fact, still in the mountains.

The top portion of Livingston's T-intersection, Park Street, is a reduced-speed section of Interstate 90. Visibly full of attractions, it poses motorists with a rather tantalizing decision of what commercial strip to start with (just let your gut guide you, and then your feet pull you along both streets anyway). Check out the Livingston Depot Center (a 1902 train station-turned railroad museum), which is just a couple blocks removed from the Yellowstone Gateway Museum (which stands in honor of the titular national park). Otherwise, follow the funky business/hotel signage hanging high off the sidewalk - resembling a toned-down Nashville or Reno.

Parting Thoughts

I know the prairies to the east have their strengths, but as a mountain man through and through, Western Montana spoke straight to my soul. Each natural landscape and every personable community made this ten-day venture into the Treasure State special. Montana delivered on all fronts, from the gargantuan mountains and crisp Ice Age lakes to the small-scale commercial pleasures, such as local markets and museums.